Embarking on a photography road trip to the Hartland Peninsula on the northwest coast of Devon, I set out with a plan to capture the rugged beauty of this remote region. My journey began on a cloudy July morning at Hartland Quay, where dramatic rock formations and the promise of stunning seascapes beckoned. The goal was to scout the best locations and compositions, returning later in the week under more favorable conditions to truly capture the essence of this spectacular coastline.

Throughout the trip, I explored a variety of awe-inspiring sites, from the cascading waterfalls of Speke’s Mill Mouth to the striking landmark of Blackchurch Rock. Each location offered unique challenges and rewards, from navigating single-lane roads and remote trails to finding the perfect timing with tides and weather. This adventure not only tested my photographic skills but also my endurance and creativity, ultimately providing a rich tapestry of images and experiences along the stunning Devon and Cornwall coastlines.

Devon Wet Road Trips

This is the fourth road trip I have taken to Devon and Cornwall as a landscape photographer. Every time been lots of clouds rain and storms. The first was back in December 2018 visiting Devon then down to Penzance in Cornwall. Then made a return discovering Dartmoor for the first time again some very stormy wet weather. Earlier this year in February a complete wash out on the south Devon coast from Falmouth down to Brixham with my base in Torquay. Well this trip to North Devon was not much better….

Hartland Quay

My photography adventure to the north west of Devon began one cloudy mostly overcast July morning at Hartland Quay.

The plan was to scout out the best locations and compositions on the Hartland Peninsular and return later in the week when the conditions were more favourable.

Lots of interesting rock formations around Hartland Quay providing leading lines to more prominent rocks in the background. Long exposure for some motion blur with a receding tide and sunset would elevate the composition.

Speke’s Mill Mouth Waterfall

From Hartland Quay did the hike to Speke’s Mill mouth waterfall on the Hartland coastline.

There are a cascade of waterfalls at Spekes Mill the higher levels although dramatic are difficult to frame up and photograph.

Its quite a hike down to the beach of Speke’s Mill Mouth but there are better compositions of the waterfalls to be had there.

Photographing Waterfalls

Waterfalls are a good subject to photograph on dull days. But was not carrying a tripod or ND filter to get an appropriate shutter speed and motion blur. Was using the 24-105mm Canon lens with IS. Set my camera to shutter priority at 1/30 which was as low as I could go. Fitted a polariser to take the glare of the dark water and gives you approx. 2 less stops of light. Should always carry a tripod even if just small travel one and an ND filter.

Welcombe Mouth Beach

I was staying in a cabin at Welcombe on the Hartland Peninsular. One morning made my way down to Welcombe Mouth Beach and was pleasantly surprised by more waterfalls.

Without an ND filter I was limited how much I could drag the shutter speed.

Black and White Photography

Another overcast day and when an image not have much colour but strong shapes and contrast converting them to black and white is worth experimenting with.

Hartland Point

Next Stop was Hartland Point to check out the location. Hartland is one of the most remote locations I have been too in England. The roads down to the coast are single lane and more like tracks in places. Mobile phone signals are non existent in most places.

The main composition here includes the lighthouse, the dramatic rocks and cliff face leading out to Lundy Island in the background. Took a walk along the coast from Hartland Point towards Hartland Quay.

Lots of dramatic coastline along the Hartland Peninsular and on an overcast day with little vibrance or colour converting to black and white enhances the images.

Blackchurch Rock

Blackchurch Rock was the inspiration of this road trip to the Hartland coast and north west Devon. I really wanted to photograph Blackchurch rock on this peninsular. Blackchurch rock is not particulary easy to get to. My first attempt at high tide was from the popular tourist location of Clovelly. Clovelly is an odd place where you have to pay to enter the village on the cliffside. Had to pay £5 parking then took the strenuous hike towards Mouthmill Beach and Blackchurch rock.

Arriving at Mouthmill beach it was obvious maybe high tide was not the best time to photograph Blackchurch rock. Not obvious if not been before until you are down on the ground in front of the astonishing landmark. I really wanted the two holes in the sea stack to feature prominently. The rocks here on the beach are very precarious and slippery when wet. Anti slip soles like Vibram could be a life safer. I ventured as far as I could go facing west and caught a little bit of dynamism in the frame with the breaking tide and moody clouds otherwise a very static image. The plan now was return low tide and observe the difference.

Appledore Bideford

The plan for the day was to return to Blackchurch Rock for low tide but not occur until around 4pm so had the morning to kill. Not want to walk far as needed to preserve my energy levels for the big hike to Blackchurch rock. Decided to visit more of a built up area that of Appledore and Bideford.

A few tourists around at Appledore quay, families fishing etc and some nice cafe’s along the side of the river Torridge. Another overcast day but found a composition with a passing yacht and large anchor.

At Bideford Quay the bridge became the main focal point. A passing gull adds a touch of dynamism to the otherwise static scene. Converting to black and white adds impact given the dull colourless conditions.

Blackchurch Rock low tide

Rather than Covelly would try the walk from Brownsham National Trust. In hindsight there is not much difference in the two walks to Blackchurch rock, both equally strenuous especially on the way back which is mostly uphill.

Low tide provided more access to the dramatic sea stack but the rocks are difficult to walk on. There are grooves between the rock formations and can use these manoeuvre more safely. Despite the dull conditions with the colour in the rocks not need to convert to black and white in this instance.

Dramatic or Serene

Dont think either low tide or high tide works that well at Blackchurch rock. The plan was to return mid tide with the sun setting behind me. Timing was not good though. Better to have a receding tide rather than incoming. Feel like the image needs more dynamic elements in the frame. Not sure what would work better more serene elements like motion blur and sunset colours or more dramatic elements like crashing waves, lightning, storm clouds – with such an astonishing location and subject.

Energy Alignment

After two hikes to Blackrock I not manage a third. Good seascape or landscape photography requires the alignment of many elements. This includes you, your motivation and energy levels. These need to peak in conjunction with nature and what you are photographing. I needed more time at Hartland to accommodate repeat visits to these locations. I not achieve what inspired me to travel all this way not realise my visualisation.

Widemouth Bay

Another dull overcast day in Hartland on the north west coast of Devon. The plan was to return to Blackchurch Rock for mid tide and hopefully sunset. So I had the day to kill. Plan was to drive along the coast and check out some more beaches and seascapes. Hartland is at the far west of Devon so close to the Cornwall border. After visiting Bude drove onto Widemouth Bay and the high cliffs beyond.

Lots of low cloud and fog rolling in from the Bristol channel adds some drama to Cornwall coast at Widemouth Bay zooming in with the 100-400mm lens.

Northcott Mouth

My first stop of my last day in Hartland was at Sandymouth Bay Beach just inside the Cornwall border. Being overcast and high tide there was not much to photograph. But at low tide you can walk along wide stretches of sandy beach down to Northcott Mouth and Bude.

Interestingly at low tide on Northcott Mouth beach is a the remains of a shipwreck which makes good foreground interest. But with low tide happening in the afternoon the sand is full of footprints, not much can do about except visit where low tide aligns with dawn.

Duckpool Beach

My last stop on the north Devon and Cornwall coast was at Duckpool beach. Much the same really a sandy rocky bay.

Some interesting rock formations on the coast point back to the sea at low tide. There was a moment of light and some people walking on the beach add scale. That ended my road trip on the Hartland peninsular more from exhaustion. I not come away from Hartland with an image I am really happy with.

Key Learnings and Reflections

• Equipment:
  • Importance of carrying a tripod and ND filter for optimal shutter speed control, especially for waterfall and long exposure photography.
  • Using a polarizer to reduce glare and achieve better results in bright conditions.
• Photographic Conditions:
  • Dull and overcast days can be advantageous for waterfall photography and black-and-white conversions.
  • Dynamic elements (e.g., breaking waves, storm clouds) can elevate otherwise static scenes.
  • Timing of tides plays a crucial role in seascape photography, particularly with iconic landmarks like Blackchurch Rock.
• Personal Insights:
  • Energy levels and motivation are critical for achieving desired photographic results.
  • Repeat visits to locations can be necessary to capture the ideal conditions and compositions.

Staying Connected on the Road: A Guide to Maintaining Internet Access

Hartland is a very remote location, and mobile phone signals are very patchy. The cabin I was staying in had good Wi-Fi, but the upload speed was pathetic. To check the internet speed in a given location, simply type “Internet Speed Test” into Google, press the Test button, and you will get both download and upload speeds.

The cabin’s router did not allow VPN traffic, so I couldn’t log into my work computer this way. This was the first time I encountered this problem on my work road trips and had to find a workaround.

Talking to the owners about their mobile phones, I discovered they were with EE. I was with Vodafone and had no signal. If there is a problem with Wi-Fi at my location, I usually tether through my mobile phone for my data needs by using it as a hotspot. This allows you to bypass any Wi-Fi limitations, but in this instance, it was not an option.

There are four major network operators in the UK: Vodafone, EE, O2, and Three. All the others piggy back of the these. Their signal strengths vary depending on what part of the country you are in. You can check the mobile signal strength of your chosen location before you book using the Ofcom website. You can select either Vodafone, EE, O2, or Three, then check the mobile strength given the postcode and even door number, and whether indoors or outdoors.

At my location, EE had good coverage. So, I purchased an EE pay-as-you-go SIM card from a local shop, pre-loaded with 20GB of data. If you want to save a lot of pain buy a payg sim preloaded else first will have to download the app to your phone, register an account, enter all your credit card details to buy airtime. With pre-loaded you just pop it in and it works. Later you can do all that painful stuff and buy more time.

I also ordered a MiFi device online via Amazon, which you can pop a SIM into. I picked this up from an Amazon locker the next day, inserted the SIM, and had an excellent connection with no problems with VPN, upload speeds, etc. It was a total game-changer when traveling. The MiFi device is powered by a USB rechargeable battery, so it can be positioned anywhere. It makes a huge difference where you place the MiFi device. It’s best to place them high up, near a window, away from other devices, and outside if possible.

Another option with modern mobile phones, especially when traveling abroad, is using an eSIM. Check out Saily for eSIM options. However, these piggyback off one of the main providers in your given location and country, so speeds may not be optimal at busy times.

Additional Tips for Staying Connected While Traveling:

• Plan Ahead: Before traveling, research the mobile network coverage at your destination using tools like the Ofcom website.
• Invest in a Good MiFi Device: A reliable MiFi device can significantly enhance your connectivity, especially in remote areas.
• Consider Multiple SIM Cards: Having pay-as-you-go SIM cards from different providers can give you flexibility and ensure you have a backup plan.
• Use eSIMs for International Travel: eSIMs can be a convenient and cost-effective solution for staying connected abroad.

By following these tips and preparing in advance, you can ensure that you stay connected and productive, no matter where your road trips take you.