Category Archives: National Parks

Bayham Abbey – Ruins on the Sussex–Kent Border

Introduction

Tucked away in the valley of the River Teise, Bayham Abbey is one of the most atmospheric ruins on the Sussex–Kent border. Founded in 1208 for the Premonstratensian order, it was once a thriving monastery of white-robed canons devoted to prayer and labour. Today the site is cared for by English Heritage and remains a hauntingly beautiful reminder of medieval devotion and Tudor upheaval.

Watch the short below for a glimpse of the ruins and autumn colours around the site.

A landscape steeped in history, Bayham Abbey straddles the boundary between East Sussex and Kent — the River Teise running through the grounds marks the official county line. Most of the abbey ruins lie just inside East Sussex, while the old entrance and later estate houses fall within Kent.

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History of Bayham Abbey

Bayham Abbey was established in 1208 when two smaller Premonstratensian houses — Otham in Sussex and Brockley in Kent — were merged into a new foundation on the River Teise. The order followed the rule of St Augustine, living communally with a focus on simplicity and self-sufficiency.

bayham abbey ruins on the river teise valley
Bayham abbey ruins on the river Teise valley

For more than three centuries, Bayham flourished. Its sandstone church, cloisters and chapter house formed a compact but impressive complex, surrounded by farmland and woodland owned by the abbey. Like so many monastic houses, it met its end in the 1530s during the Dissolution under Henry VIII. The property was seized by the Crown and the buildings quickly fell into ruin.

By the 18th century, the romantic decay of the abbey became part of a landscaped estate. A smaller house was built beside the ruins to frame the arches as a garden feature. In the early 19th century, architect Decimus Burton designed Bayham Old Abbey House on the hill above — a grand mansion overlooking both valley and ruins.


Visiting Today

Today, the abbey remains are managed by English Heritage and open to visitors. The ruins stand within a peaceful riverside meadow, surrounded by trees and gentle slopes. You can still trace the outlines of the church, cloisters and chapter house, with the tall west front and crossing arches rising above the grass.

bayham old abbey ruins
bayham old abbey ruins

It’s a quiet site, ideal for photography in early morning or late afternoon light. Autumn brings rich colour to the surrounding woodland, while spring reveals carpets of wildflowers along the banks of the Teise.


Practical Info

Location: Bayham Abbey, Furnace Lane, Little Bayham, Tunbridge Wells TN3 8LP
Access: Small English Heritage car park on site (free for members).
Best Time to Visit: Early morning or late afternoon for soft light; autumn and spring for colour.
Nearby:

  • Scotney Castle – a romantic moated house and gardens nearby in Lamberhurst.
  • Bewl Water – large reservoir offering walks and cycling routes.
  • Batemans – the former home of Rudyard Kipling near Burwash.

Ashburnham Place – Autumn Reflections on a Lost Sussex Estate

Introduction

Ashburnham Place lies deep in the High Weald near Battle, once home to one of Sussex’s oldest landed families. By mid-October the trees here turn gold and amber, and walking the lakeside paths offers a glimpse of both natural beauty and a long English lineage.

Watch the short video below:

A calm autumn morning among Capability Brown’s sweeping parkland and St Peter’s Church.

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The Ashburnham Legacy

The Ashburnham family took their name from the nearby village and rose to prominence through loyalty to the Crown and ownership of vast Sussex lands. John Ashburnham (1603–1671) served King Charles I during the Civil War and was later rewarded by Charles II, cementing the family’s wealth and influence.

Ashburnham place stone bridge autumn
Ashburnham place stone bridge autumn

Their estates extended across Sussex and into London, where the name still survives in Ashburnham Road and the Ashburnham Mansion Block in Chelsea.


The Lost House

The grand mansion at Ashburnham Place once stood as one of the county’s finest houses. Most of it was demolished in the 1950s, leaving only the west wing—now called the Coachman’s House.

Ashburnham place ancient beech woodland
Ashburnham place ancient beech woodland

The surrounding park was landscaped in the 18th century by Lancelot “Capability” Brown, with the Broad Water lake as its centrepiece.


Church and Landscape

Beside the lake stands St Peter’s Church, resting place of generations of the Ashburnham family. Inside are marble memorials and heraldic tablets that trace the family’s reach from medieval times to the 19th century. The church and lake remain the quiet heart of the estate, framed by autumn colours and Brown’s designed vistas.


A Landed Family in Decline

Like many great estates, Ashburnham’s fortunes faded as agricultural income fell. Heavy maintenance costs and post-war taxes forced the sale and demolition of much of the house. The remaining property became a Christian retreat centre, preserving part of the grounds for public enjoyment.


Practical Info

Location: Near Battle, East Sussex, on the High Weald. There is free parking and the Orangey café. No dog walking.
Access: Public footpaths lead around Broad Water and St Peter’s Church.
Best Time to Visit: Mid- to late autumn for colour, or spring for reflections on the lake.

Nearby: Battle Abbey – site of the 1066 Battle of Hastings; Penhurst Church – quiet Wealden village with medieval features; Bateman’s – Rudyard Kipling’s former home at Burwash.

Lewes Castle – The Norman Stronghold Above the Ouse Valley

Introduction

From the slopes of Mount Caburn that September morning, I could just see Lewes Castle rising through the mist — the twin mottes catching the first light over the town. It’s one of the earliest Norman castles in England, begun around 1069 by William de Warenne, one of William the Conqueror’s most trusted knights.


🎥 Watch the Short:


Lewes Castle | Born from Conquest after 1066

It’s hard to believe this view has changed so little in nearly a thousand years.

📍 View Lewes Castle on Google Maps
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The Norman Conquest Comes to Lewes

Lewes Castle was the second Norman stronghold in Sussex, built soon after Hastings Castle to secure the route inland and protect the road to London. Its position on the ridge above the River Ouse made it both a defensive lookout and a statement of dominance over the surrounding Saxon population.

lewes castle ouse valley way east sussex
Lewes castle Ouse valley way east Sussex

The earliest castle would have been a timber motte-and-bailey, replaced in stone through the 11th and 12th centuries. The outer towers seen today were added in the 13th century under the Angevin kings — part of the continual strengthening of Norman fortifications across southern England.


Strategic Importance

Lewes controlled the key route between the south coast and the old capital at Winchester. From here, Norman lords could oversee trade and movement along the Ouse Valley and the approaches to the Downs. It formed one link in a chain of coastal strongholds, including Hastings, Pevensey, and Arundel, that secured William’s new kingdom against rebellion and invasion alike.


Visiting Today

You can still climb the steep steps up to the keep and take in the same commanding view that once overlooked the Norman road north. Inside the walls, the museum tells the story of Lewes through Saxon, Norman, and medieval times.

lewes castle east sussex
lewes castle east sussex

It’s not just a monument — it’s a reminder of how one battle reshaped an entire country.


Practical Info

Location: Lewes, East Sussex
Access: Public entrance via Castle Gate, Lewes town centre
Best Time to Visit: Clear mornings or late afternoon for best light from the Downs
Nearby: Mount Caburn, Anne of Cleves House, Lewes Priory ruins


Nearby Places to Explore

  • Hastings Castle – The first Norman fortress in Sussex, built immediately after the Battle of Hastings.
  • Arundel Castle – Another early Norman stronghold overlooking the River Arun.
  • Pevensey Castle – The Roman fort re-used by William as his first landing base.

Landscape Photography Review September 2025

What follows is my landscape photography review of all the photo walks I have taken during September 2025. These included many dawn shoots along the east Sussex coast and on the south downs.

Continue reading Landscape Photography Review September 2025

Mad Jack Fuller’s Follies Walk, Brightling

Introduction

Brightling, a quiet village in the High Weald, hides a collection of follies built by John “Mad Jack” Fuller (1757–1834). Fuller was an MP, philanthropist, and notorious eccentric whose wealth and imagination left behind a unique landscape of monuments.

This walk follows a loop around Brightling, taking in all six follies: the Pyramid, Tower, Temple, Sugarloaf, Observatory, and Needle.

Here’s a short flyover reel showing the route in OS Maps 3D, with photos of each folly along the way.

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The Pyramid

Standing in Brightling churchyard, the 25-foot Pyramid is Fuller’s own tomb. Legend has it he is buried upright inside, so he could rise facing east on Judgement Day.

The Pyramid jack fuller folly Brightling high weald
The Pyramid jack fuller folly Brightling high weald

Built in 1811, it dominates the churchyard and is the most famous of his follies.

View Brightling Pyramid on Google Maps


The Tower

Brightling Tower rises on a ridge above the High Weald. Built in 1813, it’s said Fuller wanted to watch ships coming into the English Channel — though at nearly 10 miles inland, it seems unlikely.

The Tower jack fuller folly Brightling high weald
The Tower jack fuller folly Brightling high weald

Today the Tower is a striking landmark on the walk.

View Brightling Tower on Google Maps


The Temple

Tucked away in the fields is the Grecian-style Temple. Used for Fuller’s gatherings and amusements, it shows his taste for classical design.

The Temple jack fuller folly Brightling high weald
The Temple jack fuller folly Brightling high weald

Now surrounded by farmland, it adds a surprising touch of ancient Greece to the Sussex countryside.

View Brightling Tower on Google Maps


The Sugarloaf

The Sugarloaf is perhaps the most curious — a conical stone monument with no clear purpose. Local tales suggest it was built to hide the brickwork of a smuggler’s kiln.

The Sugarloaf jack fuller folly Brightling high weald
The Sugarloaf jack fuller folly Brightling high weald

Others think it was simply another of Fuller’s eccentric whims.

View Brightling Sugarloaf on Google Maps


The Observatory

Fuller was a supporter of science, and in 1810 he funded the building of an Observatory on the edge of Brightling.

The observatory jack fuller folly brightling high weald
The observatory jack fuller folly brightling high weald

Though it is no longer in use, the building is a reminder of his patronage of astronomy.

View Brightling Observatory on Google Maps


The Needle

The final folly is the Needle, a tall obelisk standing stark on the hill. Its purpose remains uncertain — perhaps to mark an estate boundary, or perhaps simply to bewilder posterity.

The needle jack fuller folly brightling high weald
The needle jack fuller folly brightling high weald

Whatever the reason, it completes the set of follies around Brightling.

View Brightling Temple on Google Maps


Practical Info

  • Location: Brightling, East Sussex, in the heart of the High Weald.
  • Access: The follies are scattered around the village; OS Maps or a GPS route is recommended. Parking is possible in Brightling village.
  • Best Time to Visit: Spring through autumn for clear paths and views across the High Weald.
  • Nearby:
    • Burwash — village linked to Rudyard Kipling.
    • Bateman’s — Kipling’s former home, now National Trust.
    • Socknersh Manor — a historic 17th-century house just outside Brightling.

Bodiam Castle – The Storybook Fortress of Sussex

Introduction

Bodiam Castle looks like it has stepped straight out of a fairytale — a 14th-century fortress perfectly mirrored in its surrounding moat. Built by Sir Edward Dalyngrigge, a former knight of Edward III, it was intended both as a defensive stronghold against French raids and as a statement of wealth and power. Today, it stands as one of the best-loved castles in Sussex, drawing visitors from across the world.

Here’s a short reel from my visit to Bodiam Castle:

The castle’s location can be found on Google Maps and you can also explore it alongside my other places on All Map Locations.


A Castle of Defence and Display

Construction began in 1385 after Dalyngrigge received permission, or “license to crenellate,” from Richard II. The design — a near-perfect quadrangle surrounded by water — was as much about prestige as practicality. Its wide moat and single entrance drawbridge offered real defence, but the elegant symmetry and impressive towers were built to impress as much as protect.

Bodiam castle November light
Bodiam castle November light

The castle later passed through the Lewknor family and then, during the English Civil War, was partially dismantled to prevent military use. By the 19th century, it was a romantic ruin attracting artists and travellers. In 1829, the eccentric local squire John “Mad Jack” Fuller purchased the castle to prevent its destruction, ensuring its survival. Its fortunes changed again when Lord Curzon undertook major restoration in the early 20th century, before entrusting Bodiam to the National Trust in 1925.


Visiting Bodiam Castle

Wandering around the site today, you can cross the moat on the bridge, climb the towers for sweeping views of the Rother Valley, and look down into the ruined interiors where the great hall, kitchens, and chapel once stood. The moat itself teems with wildlife, while the surrounding landscape makes it a favourite spot for walks and photography.


Practical Info

Location: Near Robertsbridge, East Sussex, in the Rother Valley
Access: Managed by the National Trust, with paid entry and parking onsite
Best Time to Visit: Spring and autumn for reflections in the moat, but summer offers longer opening hours
Nearby:

Hastings Castle – The Ruins That Still Rule the Hill

Introduction

Hastings Castle may be a ruin, but it still commands attention. Perched high above the Old Town on West Hill, it offers not just a window into the Norman past but one of the most breathtaking views in Sussex — castle walls in the foreground, the pier and coastline stretching out beyond. To me, that’s more than worth the entrance fee.

One of my favourite vantage points in the area — here’s the full video Short. If you’re exploring Hastings, don’t miss this spot.


A Castle That’s Seen It All

Originally a wooden motte-and-bailey built in 1066, Hastings Castle was soon rebuilt in stone by 1070, making it William the Conqueror’s first permanent stronghold after landing at nearby Pevensey. Over the centuries, coastal erosion, neglect, and storms have taken their toll — especially the Great Storms of the 13th century, which destroyed large portions of the site.

Hastings castle ruins west hill
View west from inside the grounds of the ruins of Hastings Castle on top of West Hill east Sussex south east England UK

By the Victorian era, what was left was romanticised as a ruin, excavated and reimagined for a new kind of tourism. Even the dramatic archways visible today owe something to 19th-century reshaping.


Not Just Crumbling Walls

Some people scoff at the £6.75 entrance fee, calling it expensive for “a few bits of wall.” But as a photographer and someone drawn to the atmosphere of old places, I see it differently. The framing of the ruined towers against the coastline is stunning, especially at sunset. And just standing there, imagining William himself looking out across this same horizon — that’s priceless.

This isn’t just about bricks and ruins. It’s about presence. It’s about putting yourself in the scene.


The Controversy

When I visited in June, a Pride flag was flying from the highest point. For some, it was a symbol of inclusion. For others, it sparked debate — was it appropriate to fly any temporary political or identity flag in place of the Union Jack at a site so steeped in national heritage?

Whatever your take, it stirred strong feelings. And that’s what these places do — they bring history into the present.


Practical Info

  • Location: West Hill, Hastings, East Sussex
  • Access: Best reached via the West Hill Cliff Railway or steep footpath from George Street
  • Best Time to Visit: Clear days for views; sunset for photography
  • Nearby:

Final Thoughts

Hastings Castle isn’t just a historic site — it’s a lens through which to view the past and the present. Whether you come for the view, the atmosphere, or the story, there’s something timeless here. And maybe that’s the point: the castle may be in ruins, but it still rules the hill.

Litlington White Horse & High and Over – Sussex Chalk Figure and Valley Views

Introduction

Above the village of Litlington stands a striking chalk figure carved into the hillside – the Litlington White Horse. From here the landscape opens into the Cuckmere Valley, a place of sky, river, and history. High and Over, the nearby viewpoint, is one of the best places to take it all in, with sweeping views over the South Downs to the sea.

A closer look at the White Horse and valley – watch the full video here:

Find it here on Google Maps or explore my own collection of All Map Locations.


History of the White Horse

The Litlington White Horse is a chalk hill figure first cut in 1924 by local villagers. It replaced an earlier horse that had faded into the grass and scrub. While it may not be as ancient as the Uffington figure in Oxfordshire,

white horse high and over
white horse of Litlington high and over south downs

it has become a much-loved landmark of East Sussex. Chalk figures like this are a reminder of human imprint on the Downs – visible for miles, yet fragile without upkeep.

High and Over

The headland above Litlington is known as High and Over – a name that perfectly fits its lofty position. This spot offers one of the best viewpoints in the South Downs National Park.

mistly morning high and over cuckmere valley
mistly morning high and over cuckmere valley

On a clear day, you can see the Cuckmere meanders winding their way to the sea at Cuckmere Haven, with Seaford Head and the Seven Sisters cliffs beyond.

Cuckmere Valley and River

The Cuckmere is unique as the only Sussex river to cut directly through the chalk South Downs to the sea in a natural valley. Its meandering curves near Exceat are famous among walkers, photographers, and artists. These sweeping bends are classic river features – oxbow shapes that one day may form oxbow lakes when cut off from the main channel. The valley itself remains a beautiful, largely unspoilt landscape.

Lullington and Surroundings

To the east lies Lullington, a hamlet claimed to have the smallest church in England. Walking down Church Lane here, with sunlight spilling across the fields, gives a timeless sense of rural Sussex. Goats grazing the chalk slopes and paragliders drifting above complete the scene – an ever-changing picture of people and nature.


Practical Info

  • Location: Litlington White Horse, near Alfriston, East Sussex.
  • Access: Car park at High and Over; footpaths lead to the horse and along the valley.
  • Best Time to Visit: Clear days for views; late afternoon light gives drama to the valley.
  • Nearby:
    • Alfriston Clergy House – the first National Trust property.
    • Cuckmere Haven – the river mouth with views of the Seven Sisters.
    • Lullington Church – one of England’s smallest places of worship.

Friston Airfield Memorial – A South Downs WWII Tribute

Introduction

On the quiet slopes above Friston, East Sussex, a memorial stands to mark the site of a once-bustling wartime airfield. During the Second World War, this patch of the South Downs became an emergency landing ground and fighter base, where RAF and Allied pilots flew coastal patrols, engaged enemy aircraft, and escorted bombers back across the Channel. Today, the airfield is gone, but the memorial ensures that the men who served here are not forgotten.

Here’s a short reel from the site:

A simple stone memorial looks out across the Downs, inviting visitors to pause and reflect on the sacrifices made in these skies.

History

Friston Airfield was established during WWII as a strategic base for Fighter Command. Its location on the South Downs, just inland from the coast, made it ideal for intercepting enemy aircraft and providing protection for convoys and returning bombers.

The grass strip runway and temporary facilities saw intense activity during the height of the war. Spitfires and Hurricanes of the RAF operated here, later joined by squadrons from other Allied nations, including Poland and Canada.

The airfield also served as an emergency landing ground for damaged aircraft limping back across the Channel — not all of which made it safely. The memorial honours both those who flew from Friston and those who fell nearby.

Visiting the Memorial

Today, there is little sign of the wartime airfield itself — the South Downs landscape has reclaimed the site. What remains is a peaceful spot, with wide skies and rolling fields that once echoed to the sound of Merlin engines.

The memorial stone stands at the roadside near the village of Friston. From here, the views stretch across the Downs and out towards the Channel, a reminder of the very skies where the air war once raged.

Practical Info

  • Location: Near Friston, East Sussex, just off the A259 between Eastbourne and Seaford.
  • Access: The memorial is roadside and easily accessible by car. Parking is limited.
  • Best Time to Visit: Clear days give the best views across the Downs and out to sea.
  • Nearby:

Reflection

Friston Airfield has vanished from the landscape, but the memorial keeps its memory alive. For those who stop here, it’s a chance to picture the roar of engines, the tension of combat, and the bravery of young pilots who defended these skies.

Crowhurst Manor Ruins – A Forgotten Fragment of Medieval Sussex

Introduction

You come for the yew — but stay for the ruin.

Tucked behind the legendary 1,300-year-old yew tree in the graveyard of St George’s Church, the ruins of Crowhurst Manor are easy to miss. But they speak quietly of medieval power and long-lost prestige. This was once a substantial moated manor — and today, only its fractured walls remain, weathered into the hillside.

Here’s a short look at what’s left — and what we know of its story.


Here’s a glimpse of the old manor wall in the morning light.
Watch the full clip above, and explore the history below.

🔗 Crowhurst on Google Maps
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The History

Crowhurst Manor was first built around 1250 by Walter de Scotney, a steward to the Earl of Cornwall. It sat within a moated enclosure — the kind of minor aristocratic estate that symbolised wealth and control in medieval Sussex.

Later, in the 1350s, it was reportedly enlarged or repaired under John, Earl of Richmond — an important royal figure who likely never stayed here, but whose influence extended across the region.

By the 19th century, it had already slipped into ruin. The moat remains faintly visible in satellite images, and one crumbling flint wall still stands beside the lane that leads past the church.

crowhurst manor ruins east sussex
Crowhurst manor ruins east Sussex

Today, few who visit the ancient yew realise just how close they are to this buried history.


Practical Info

  • Location: Behind St George’s Church, Crowhurst, East Sussex
  • Access: Footpath runs beside the ruin — visible from the lane, no need to trespass
  • Best Time to Visit: Early morning or late afternoon for soft light
  • Nearby:

Closing Thoughts

There’s something haunting about a ruin like this. It doesn’t shout its history — it leaves you to find it. Overgrown, quiet, and slowly returning to the earth, it’s a reminder that even once-important places can fade into near silence.

But for a few moments, you can stand beside its stones and imagine the lives once lived here — under the same sky, beside the same yew.

Exmoor Ponies on Wilmington Hill – South Downs Views to Firle Beacon

Introduction

High on Wilmington Hill at the end of August, the weather turned blustery and dramatic. A rainbow briefly appeared before storm clouds rolled over the Downs. Against this backdrop, a herd of Exmoor ponies grazed the slopes, with Firle Beacon soft in the distance. These hardy ponies are more than just a beautiful sight — they play a vital role in conserving the chalk grassland of the South Downs.

Here’s a short reel from the day:

Exmoor ponies on the South Downs are here for a reason — conservation grazing keeps the slopes open for wildflowers, butterflies, and other wildlife.

📍 View Wilmington Hill on Google Maps
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History & Landscape

Wilmington Hill rises steeply above the Sussex Weald, offering world-class views across the patchwork fields of the Downs. Just below lies one of the region’s most iconic landmarks — the Long Man of Wilmington, a mysterious chalk figure cut into the hillside.

The ponies here are Exmoors, one of Britain’s oldest native breeds. Their hardy build and steady grazing make them ideal for managing rough chalk grassland, preventing scrub from overwhelming the delicate ecosystem. This form of conservation grazing helps to preserve habitats for species such as the Grayling butterfly, which depends on open, sunny slopes.

Photography Notes

The light on this day was constantly shifting — clouds racing in the wind, the land below glowing one moment and darkening the next.

Photographing the ponies against this backdrop created a natural contrast: the immediacy of a living subject set against the timeless South Downs landscape.

Exmoor ponies on wilmington hill south downs
pony on wilmington hill with firle beacon lit up in the background south downs east Sussex south east England UK

Practical Info

  • Location: Wilmington Hill, near the village of Wilmington, East Sussex
  • Access: Footpaths lead up from Wilmington village and nearby car parks; the climb is steep in places but rewarded with wide views
  • Best Time to Visit: Late summer and early autumn for dramatic skies and active grazing; spring for wildflowers
  • Nearby:

Closing Thoughts

The Exmoor ponies add something special to Wilmington Hill — a reminder that the South Downs are not just scenery but a living landscape, shaped by centuries of grazing, farming, and human imagination. With the Long Man at their feet and Firle Beacon on the horizon, this is Sussex at its most evocative.

August 2025 Landscape Photography Review

What follows is a collection of my best photos taken during August 2025. Including trips to Ashdown forest on the high weald and walks over the south downs all within the boundaries of east Sussex.

Continue reading August 2025 Landscape Photography Review